Datong (part 4)- Yungang Grottoes

Our last morning in Datong was spent at the Yungang Grottoes. I had no idea of what to expect other than large Buddha statues.

The place was beyond amazing. We were taken in to these caves with literally thousands of carvings on the wall. The tallest statue was 56 feet high, the smallest was 2 centimeters.

We are talking 51,000 statues in 53 caves, stretching more than 1 km in length!

The basic story behind the caves is that a Chinese emperor persecuted and killed a bunch of Buddhists some 1,500 years ago.

When the guy got older, he decided that wasn't a good idea. He ordered his son to carry out an apology. That apology is the caves. For more than 60 years, people worked at carving Buddhas of with all different shapes, sizes and facial expressions.

They would start way up high on the side of the sandstone mountain and dig a tunnel in. Then they would begin shaping the Buddha from the top down.

The first few attempts were mis-measured so the feet of the giant statue are either missing or badly misshapen. (DOH!) After a bit, the carvers caught on and the remaining Buddhas all have feet.

Some statues were painted, others like the ones you see in my pictures, are just plain.

The grottoes have been destroyed over time by war and nature but in 2001 the Chinese government got serious about protecting them and listed the site on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List.

Definitely a cool place to visit...if you like mountains turned temples.

Datong (part 3)- The Hanging Monastery

This was one of the coolest sites on the trip- The Hanging Monastery. As you can see it literally is hanging off this side of a mountain cliff (the series of wide, medium and tight shots are for you Paulie!) It was built back in 491 using a series of crossbeams inserted in to the rock. The buildings were then constructed on the beams and held up with stilts.

To get to the top (165 feet) you have to walk, very carefully, along a narrow stone stairway. It is only wide enough for one person at a time. (The ants go marching one by one- hurrah, hurrah!) I just can't believe that logs, no wider than my leg, are holding these three buildings up.

So what are the three buildings for, you might ask? Each one is for a different form of religious worship: Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism. Inside the rooms are statues carved of iron, copper, terracotta and stone. The buildings and rooms within are linked by a series of bridges, winding stairwells and platforms that precariously hang on the mountainside.

Our guide said there are two theories as to why the monastery was built on the cliffs. Around the corner is a river that floods the valley. The architects, therefore, wanted something high enough to stay dry. Another theory is that the location is about halfway between 2 sacred sites. It would make a good resting point for religious travelers. Either way, this is one architectural wonder I am glad I got a chance to see.

PS- No trip to a religious site would be complete without buying a hat in the bathroom. Keepin' it classy Kerry!

Datong (part 2)- The Cave Village

After heading to a hotel to freshen up after our train ride, we had a western style breakfast and boarded a bus.


Winding through rocky, sandy mountains we pulled off the road to park. The tour guide told us that villagers in the valley all lived in caves. The place is called Dong U Tao.


Everyone is busy snapping pictures and peasant children come running up to sell us handmade Chinese toys.





The poverty is striking as we are just an hour outside the city of Datong. Farmers use mules to plow fields. Because the area is so dry, the crops are mostly corn. There is no rice in this part of China unless it is shipped in.



People grind corn to make noodles which is a staple in their diets. Outside homes you could see corn drying on clothes lines.



The region is known as a major coal producer. Thousands work in mines. In fact, I see stories almost every single day about fatal coal mine accidents.


The village did have electricity, which explains the satellite dish. But there was no plumbing or running water.


I noticed a home across the street with steep steps leading up to a series of caves. Our tour guide asked me if I would like to pay the owner a visit and of course I said yes. That is him pictured below.




Most people would dread having 20 strangers tromp through their home on a moments notice, but not this guy. He was incredibly welcoming. He lived in caves all his life and has had people visit him from all over the world. In fact, on his wall was a newspaper article about him written by an American journalist.



His home was fascinating. He drags water up the side of the mountain from a village well and stores it in this barrel. I can't imagine what a pain that must be.


His bed is built on a block of bricks. Inside those bricks is an oven where he burns coal to keep warm during the winter. I don't know how trusting I would be of a bed which doubles as an oven, but he said it works just fine.

The cave is carved out of the mountain, but villagers use a mixture of corn stalks and mud to plaster the walls and ceiling.


There were three "rooms" inside the cave. The bedroom/living room, a food storage room and a main enterance. I didn't notice a bathroom.


Outside his home was a garden where he not only grew food but also flowers.


He too had a satellite dish running to his TV although I couldn't tell you what channels he was able to pick up.


Most of the people in the village were elderly like this gentlemen or farmers. Younger people migrate to cities to work and then send funds home. However, in China, it is very hard for them to get permanent residency in cities (population control laws) so people have to return home when they retire.


This was a good reminder that I am in a developing country despite the modernities of Beijing and this was just our first stop.

Datong (part 1)- The train trip

Giant buddah statues. People living in caves. A monastery hanging on the side of a cliff. It was all the enticement I needed to sign up for a tour to Datong for the weekend of Oct. 17-19th.

I went with my Scottish friend, Kerry (obviously the red head in the picture below) and about 15 other foreign tourists and expats I had never met.

Our adventure got started Friday night. Everyone was supposed to meet at the China Culture Center at 9 p.m.. Kerry and I were running a bit late because our cab driver decided to take an off-road short cut through some construction site.

Once a cabbie gets an idea in his head to do something, there really is no stopping them- at least with my limited Chinese anyways. You just have to trust them and go along for the ride. As we are bouncing along this dirt path, an officer pulls us over and tells us to turn around. Great, we think, we are going to miss the bus ride to the train station.

With 10 minutes to spare, we come running up to our group, which is in the middle of a slide-show presentation on the history of the city. Some people are lingering outside the door. We ask, is it over? The guys, who I later find out are from Chicago, say no, they just wanted to forego the boring stuff and start drinking beer. Ahhh this is my kind of tour, I think to myself.

We all load up on a bus and are driven to the train station. Our guide shows us how to read a Chinese train ticket and we head to our sleeper car for a seven-hour, overnight ride.

I have been on plenty of trains, but this one takes the cake. The bathroom has a squat pot that empties out right on to the railroad tracks. You have to carefully balance yourself as the train is moving, otherwise you will end up with one leg dragging on the tracks below- scary!

Our sleeper compartment , which is the size of a walk-in closet, has 6 (yes, 6!!!) bunk beds- 3 on each side. Of course, Kerry and I are supposed to sleep on the very top. To get up there, you have to step on two metal rods sticking out of the door. We thought this was a hilarious setup. So did the 4 other strangers we were sharing the "room" with. Ha ha funny, funny- that is until the lights went out.

Here we all are, introducing ourselves, when suddenly it is pitch black. Not even a tiny night light to guide us anywhere, especially up. Kerry and I throw our bags on our bunks and I begin the climb up. I think I have reached my bed so I proceed to lunge towards where my head is supposed to be, however, I don't land on my pillow. "Oopsie- I think you have to keep going one more."

That's right, I laid right on top of one of the ladies on the tour with me. How was I supposed to know she was there?! I keep climbing. Once on my bunk, I have to hunch over as there is about two feet of head space. I find my phone and light the way for Kerry. I almost wish I didn't do that.

On my bed was a cigarrette butt which I had to flick off without hitting anyone. If that was there for me to see, I could only guess at what lay waiting for me in my sheets. I decided to forego those and the pillow. There was no sleeping tight for fear the bed bugs really would bite!

Kerry and I got the giggles at this point and just decided that it was better not to have any lights on. I wrapped up in my sweatshirt and let the train rock me to sleep. A few hours later a Chinese railroad employee was pounding on the bottom of my bunk asking for my ticket. Could it really be 5:30 a.m. already?

I can't imagine what he must have thought of me. I was fully clothed, turned on my side. My butt was totally eating the safety bar. Literally, one cheek over , the other, under. I am sure my hair was a mess. But I just did not care.

I had time to gather my things and get down from the bunk (I passed on the potty break) as we were departing in Datong. Day one of my journey: complete.

Um, hello?

There are people who are just born lucky, or pretty or clever. Those who will always have money and those who can run fast or sing on key. The list goes on.

My point is some people just are "something". So what am I?

I am the girl who witnesses or has these really odd things happen to her. Nothing bad, just things that make for really great stories after the initial shock wears off.

Case in point: I was taking a nap Tuesday afternoon as I didn't have to be at work until 6 p.m. (my shifts rotate every week). The sun was shining in my bedroom window, it was warm, quiet- perfect time for a snooze.

As I lay curled up underneath my blanket, with nothing on but an old t-shirt and granny-panties, I began to dream. There were no flying unicorns or lollipops dancing around in my mind, I was envisioning someone trying to break in to my apartment.

The dream was so real. I could hear the key scratching against my metal door, turning in my lock. Then, it got a little too real.

The sound actually was coming from my door. I jump up and run to my living room just in time to see an elderly Chinese man walking in to my apartment.

He points a finger at me and starts yelling like I did something wrong. Instead of feeling threatened and grabbing a knife, like a normal person would do, I conclude that he is just senile and lost. I say, "No No No," and point towards the door.

This does not set well with him and the yelling continues only this time it's louder. Realizing that I have no pants on, I make for the bedroom. Note to self: thinking is easier when one has pants.

In the meantime, my elderly guest makes for the kitchen and starts opening drawers and cabinets in search of something. I make a grab for my cell phone and call my Chinese boss to help me sort this out.

"Hold on, I will be right there," he says. Hold on?! What the hell am I supposed to do in the 15 minutes it will take him to get to my apartment? It's not like I can have a conversation with this guy. I point to my phone and use rudimentary sign language to get him to stay put.

He helps himself and sits on my couch doing nothing but stare at me. I, in turn, sit at my kitchen table staring at him. Then I see him reach in his pocket. At this point, I get a bit scared and start coming up with defensive plans in my mind. I am bigger than this guy, I can take him, I reason.

He pulls out a set of keys and points to one that looks exactly like the key to my door. I hold up my set of keys and he starts laughing. He then shows me that his key works in my door. I show him that my key works in my door. He then starts to walk away down the hall.

I know I have to get this guy to stay in order to figure out what he was doing in my place. Do I grab him by the arm? I decide against that. Instead I run for my camera because of course a picture of this guy will help police find him if he gets away. Of course that is possible in a country of 1.3 billion. Of course.

Thankfully, I didn't have to get all paparazzi on his ass as my boss showed up just then. After a whirlwind of Chinese he tells me that the guy's granddaughter used to live in the apartment but didn't tell him that she had moved. She apparently didn't get the locks changed either.

After an apology, my uninvited house guest leaves taking his key with him.
My boss tells me to "take a rest" because my day has been stressful but laying back down is the last thing on my mind. Instead, I call the locksmith and tell him to get here- stat.

I now have a new set of keys, new pajamas and a new crazy story to tell. Ah China.

Hey, can you open this for me?

I love heading out the door of my apartment building. I never know what I will see. Every day is a new surprise, a new learning experience.

Take this week for instance... As I was walking to work on a crisp fall morning, my eye catches a glint in the sunlight. I look over to see an elderly man slowly and methodically wielding a sword. (Don't believe me, click on the link to see for yourself.)

He was practicing with it, almost dancing. He seemed so serene despite dozens of people playing ping pong right beside him. (I also took video of that because it is 8 o'clock in the morning and the tables are packed!)

In America, a man swinging a sword around in a public space results in an arrest. My coworkers in Columbus, GA know a little something about that. But here, in China, public activity of any form is encouraged. Women get together and dance, kids run and scream and play, and the government sets up exercise equipment in almost every park, which I always see being used.

It really is quite amazing and wonderful to see everyone so happy just being outside.

The Wal Mart Experience

It has been a life saver. It has been an adventure. It has been a study in cultural differences. It has been a pain in my ass. IT- is Wal Mart or what Beijingers commonly call Wu Mart.

My second night in Beijing, I made my way to this store to buy sheets and a pillow. It was late and I had just enough time and energy to pick up what I needed to make it through the night. How hard could it be to find what I needed? Beyond hard.

Survival instincts kicked in as my senses were bombarded, overwhelmed, engulfed the second I walked in the doors.

People were everywhere. Imagine the morning after Thanksgiving x 12 then throw in cocain. Salespeople and customers were all trying to get different places at once, talking over each other, grabbing things. They only time they stopped was to briefly stare at me.

The masses weren't the only shock to my system. I look left - there is unidentifiable hanging meat. I look right- fruit that could poke my eye out.

Straight ahead are vats of rice big enough to bury three small children. Don't back up, there's a fan of fish cooling on ice.

If I wanted to, I could pick out an octopus like this lady. Or hey, there's some crabs all tied up waiting to be boiled (they did not look like Sebastian from The Little Mermaid- if you were wondering). If that's not fresh enough, I could just go to the fish tanks and pick out a live one, although I am not sure what happens next. Do they kill them in them there or bring the fishes home alive?

Obviously, I was in the wrong part of the store to find bedding. I had to go up to another level (yes, this Wal Mart is so big it takes up multiple stories) which meant getting on an escalator without stairs. Not knowing how this thing worked, I watched and learned. You push your cart up until the wheels magnetically stick to the conveyor belt. Then you just enjoy the ride.

Ah ha! I spot a familiar brand at the top of the escalator: Lay's potato chips- yeah! I dodge and weave like a freshman football player (awkward and untrained) until I reach the display. What do I find? Flavors I never would have dreamed up . Blueberry or Italian red meat chips anyone?

I pass on the chips (although its too funny not to taste them at least once in the future) and eventually find what I came for. Now all I need to do to escape this bonanza of crazy is pay.

WTF? There isn't a belt to set your purchases on, you just hand them to the cashier one at a time. That is hard to do as you are jammed in between check out counters that are no farther apart than 3 feet. My pictures just don't do this justice. Whoever planned out this store, seriously lacked common sense.

For all the craziness, I have to admit, I would be in serious trouble without this Wal Mart. It is within walking distance of my apartment which is great when you have to buy gallons of water at a time.

It also provides me with constant humor. I mean, an experience in this store could be an SNL skit. (Watch out Tina Fey, here I come!) One day, I was hit in the butt with 5 different carts.

Chinese are so occupied with their shopping and seriously lack a sense of personal space. Throw in a foreigner and I end up with a bruised buttocks. Well, it would be bruised if it wasn't so well padded. HA -knew the junk in my trunk would come in handy one day. Rant over.

Anyways, I now place Wal Mart on my must-see list for anyone traveling to Beijing. Not quite the Great Wall but it is a great shopping experience.

The Squat Pot

When you gotta go, you gotta go. Unfortunately here in China, you never know how you will do it.

There are some Western style toilets. Thank goodness it's what I have in my apartment. I never really appreciated that circular seat of plastic until I had to use a squat pot.

I know you all have vivid imaginations which I will now put to rest with a series of pictures.

This is what you will find if you venture in to a restroom at my work. I have to hover above a porcelain hole in the ground to take care of business... yes, that's #1 & 2.

You are supposed to place each foot on the side of the pot and literally squat down. I admit, it takes a little practice to get your aim correct. Let's just say I will be leaving my shoes in Beijing when I come back to the States.

I was quite surprised to find squat pots at my office, mainly because it is so modern, with lots of cubicles and fluorescent lighting. I was told somewhere in this 24 story building there is a Western toilet but I am yet to find it, not for lack of trying.

The above pictured squat pots are quite nice in comparison to what I've found in restaurants and public restrooms like this random building on the side of the road pictured below. Some places don't offer TP, some don't have doors or even a divider giving you a nice chance to bond with a stranger.

You also never really know how you are going to flush the thing. Sometimes there is a gas pedal like mechanism on the floor. Other pots make you press a button on the wall and then of course there are some that don't flush at all.

I encountered that situation in a rural Chinese village. Their squat pots were merely a hole in dug in the ground with two piece of wood on each side where you placed your feet.

The most essential detail you need to know about the squat pot, no matter what type: balance is critical.

Bird burritos

There are all sorts of crazy things on Chinese menus. Just today, while out for lunch, I could have eaten "Crystal Pig Elbow," "Shredded Saucy Intestines," "Fried Chicken Claws," or even scorpions. The last choice didn't have a descriptive English name on the menu, the picture pretty much said it all.

None of the above would be voluntarily consumed by yours truly, although accidents do happen (refer to the clotted blood incident). I did, however, try one well known Chinese delicacy: Peking Roast Duck.

I figured that would be a safe choice but failed to forget the lesson I learn every year in the 1983 movie, A Christmas Story. I am not talking about legging lighting here. Remember the scene where the dogs eat the turkey so the family has to go to a Chinese restaurant and eat duck while being serenaded with carols with choruses that go Far Ra Ra Ra Ra?

There wasn't any singing at my restaurant, but there was a guy with a hatchet who unceremoniously whacks the head off the duck at your table, cuts it in two and then places it in front of you on the table for your dining pleasure.



I just went to my safe place and ignored the staring bird head while trying to enjoy my meal. (How many times do you think I will get to write that sentence while over here!? HA)


Turns out duck tastes OK it is just a bit fatty. They serve it sliced and you are supposed to put it in this burrito like thing with some dark, sweet sauce. Bon appetite!

It was a bit disappointing to have to basically go through all that just to have some bird on a burrito, but it makes for one more interesting experience here in China. Fa ra ra ra ra, ra ra ra ra!